| Author | Post |
|---|
hheyjoe@aol.com Member
| Joined: | Tue Sep 30th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 05:44 am |
|
I've had this problem. 2006 Enfield Bullet with TLS drum brakes. My front wheel doesn't spin free, and when I apply the brakes as hard as i can there is hardly any effect. If I loosen the cable the wheel spins free but I have no braking. If I tighten it... the reverse.
I've opened it, dismantled it, cleaned it up, put it back together twice and no joy. The shoes are pretty new and have plenty of tread. I'm quite new to the game, so if the answer seems too obvious... it may not be.
I'd really appreciate advice.
Joe
|
Frankfurt-Beesa Member

| Joined: | Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 |
| Location: | Frankfurt Am Main, Germany |
| Posts: | 7898 |
| Favourite Bike: | My little HodgePodge |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 06:32 am |
|
1. Are the brake shoes making contact simultaneously, if not they are pretty useless and would have the effect you are describing.
2. Brake shoes need to 'wear in' before they are really effective. They actually work best just before they are worn out as the contact area is largest then.
As far as I remember the Enfield TLS brake has an adjuster between the two cam levers, adjust this so both shoes make contact at the same time, then adjust the cable so the wheel can just spin freely, use the brake often, when ride with it slightly pulled and the brake should become more effective, then adjust the cable so it's how you want it. I had a moderate nightmare setting up my Grimeca 4LS brake, so be patient with it.
Last edited on Tue Sep 30th, 2008 06:33 am by Frankfurt-Beesa
____________________

|
hheyjoe@aol.com Member
| Joined: | Tue Sep 30th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 01:17 am |
|
Yeah, the brake has an adjuster that contects the two cams, but since the shoes are sprung to one another with two identical springs I had the feeling that this adjuster would affect both shoes in the same way, rather than one against the other. Am I wrong? I thought I might be wrong, as if this were the case the adjuster would be completely redundant...
anyhow... thanks for the advice.
|
Triton Thrasher Member

| Joined: | Tue Dec 26th, 2006 |
| Location: | United Kingdom |
| Posts: | 298 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 07:17 am |
|
I don't hava a manual for this type of bike (do you)?, but what if you adjust the cable until one shoe touches, then adjust the adjuster until the other one touches, then back the cable off until the wheel moves freely?
|
hheyjoe@aol.com Member
| Joined: | Tue Sep 30th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 05:38 am |
|
Triton Thrasher wrote: what if you adjust the cable until one shoe touches, then adjust the adjuster until the other one touches, then back the cable off until the wheel moves freely?
That's what the manual says. I'm having a bit of trouble judging when the second shoe touches. The manual says that as the second shoe touches you should feel more resistance on the adjuster, which makes sense, but it also says that the moment is so great that it can be hard to feel that change. That's damned true too. I've managed to increase the braking but don't have it up to what I'd like.
Also, as I loosen off the cable the wheel starts to spin freely, but there is always a point in the circle where something rubs (the wheel spins freely for 3/4 of a turn, and the rubs on the last 1/4).
Thanks for your comment. It sent me flying back to the manual... but I feel I have a way to go.
|
hheyjoe@aol.com Member
| Joined: | Tue Sep 30th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 05:38 am |
|
Last edited on Mon Oct 6th, 2008 05:39 am by hheyjoe@aol.com
|
peppy Member

|
Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 09:32 am |
|
hheyjoe@aol.com wrote:
Also, as I loosen off the cable the wheel starts to spin freely, but there is always a point in the circle where something rubs (the wheel spins freely for 3/4 of a turn, and the rubs on the last 1/4).
erm have you shecked for a warped drum
____________________ http://www.apincorporated.com/
|
james guthrie w Member

|
Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 10:35 pm |
|
| got an 8" tls in the front of the Flatracker which when we first tryed it nearly shook your teeth out of yer head,now after having it skimmed by a local engineering firm it runs true,set up is by trial and adjustment but until the shoes bed in it makes for a rubbish brake!i am finding that a few runs with gradually applyed pressure is helping and whip out the front wheel and deglaze the high spots,you may have to do this a couple of three times,my Nortons front drum is now very good(for a drum)and a recent heavy gage venhill cable has given back the 'bite' and feel,where the old cable outer was moving and giving a 'spongey' feel.
____________________ after instilling the 'share your toys ethic'in my children,they decided i had to share my toys as well!
|
sam2008 Member
| Joined: | Tue Oct 7th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 3 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Wed Oct 8th, 2008 08:05 am |
|
A brake is a device for slowing or stopping the motion of a machine or vehicle, or alternatively a device to restrain it from starting to move again. The kinetic energy lost by the moving part is usually translated to heat by friction. Alternatively, in regenerative braking, much of the energy is recovered and stored in a flywheel, capacitor or turned into alternating current by an alternator, then rectified and stored in a battery for later use.
____________________________________________________________
Mens Carhartt Jeans budapest property
|
 Current time is 07:23 pm | |
|