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oneredryderone
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| Joined: | Tue Jan 9th, 2007 |
| Location: | South-east Michigan, USA |
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 01:08 am |
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froze/ seized motor, clutch will 'kick thru', put trans in gear, try to rock bike--no movement.
pulled sparkplugs, used penetrating oil, no movement after 2 weeks. [66 TRIUMPH T120R, BEAUTIFUL-STORED-FOR-INSIDE-HEATED-STORAGE FOR MANY YEARS, OWNER [NOT-ME] RODE HIS HARLEY, NEVER BOTHERED TO OIL THE CYLINDERS AND OCCASIONALLY KICK-THRU.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
thanx red ryder
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Detour Rd.
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| Joined: | Sun Feb 4th, 2007 |
| Location: | Toms River, New Jersey USA |
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 02:29 am |
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Lots and lots-a hard work. Lets see how did I do this back in 98 with my T100. Pulled the motor. Pulled the head. Tied a rope around the cylinders and tied the other end up on the rafters. Lifted the motor only a few inches. Wood block and heavy hammer with much patience. Gradually, very slowly, the jugs would lift off. As the motor got closer to the crate I would raise it again. When the cylinders slid free the motor only had inches to fall to the crate. Use the weight of the motor to aid you.
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Frankfurt-Beesa
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| Joined: | Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 |
| Location: | Frankfurt Am Main, Germany |
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 05:05 am |
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As detour said, but before starting rigging up the rope, take the head off, undo the cylinder base studs and try to move the barrels, could be that just the piston rings are rusted, try putting diesel in there look to see if it seeps past the rings. If the pistons are not at TDC or BDC, a piece of wood on the piston crown and a gentle tapping, switching sides with a big hammer.
If the pistons are at TDC then go straight to Detours method, if at BDC, you should be able to turn the engine once the base gasket seal has been broken, then a couple of bits of wood between the cases and cylinder base, then proceed with whacking the piston crowns as above.
Last edited on Tue Sep 30th, 2008 05:05 am by Frankfurt-Beesa
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fickmick
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| Joined: | Fri Sep 19th, 2008 |
| Location: | Manchester, United Kingdom |
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 11:43 am |
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A fail-safe method that nearly always works, is to fill the cylinder with "Very Hot" oil.
Heat the oil under a gas ring, in the open air for obvious reasons be very careful, then pour it into the cylinder. The reaction of the hot oil and cylinder expansion is amazing, and it does work.
It's a method that was used at college when I was an apprentice, and I've used this method ever since...give it a try...But be very careful.
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oneredryderone
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| Location: | South-east Michigan, USA |
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 05:33 pm |
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THANX FOR YOUR RESPONSES........ surely more will follow!
some years ago I got a 50cc 2-cycle with 200 miles w/ a 'froze-up-motor'. pulled the sparkplug filled the cylinder w/LIQUID WRENCH-[product name]. waited 2 weeks pulled the alloy cylinder-head, used an oxygen-acetylene cutting torch to heat the cast-iron cylinder/ 'jug'. took the base nuts from 'jug' to alloy crank-case, parted that 'joint' with a putty-knife. with repeated heating and hardwood/ oak or maple spacers/ shims at that joint and hardwood block tapped on the piston surface I was able to move the piston free of the 'jug'.
found a 'grunge' similar to the crust in an old carburettor behind the piston-rings and on the cylinder where the rings were 'froze'. removed this 'grunge' from the pistons and the 'jug' wall, installed new piston-rings, and cylinder-head-gasket, 'bike' ran like new!
50cc 2 cycle---ONE PISTON, 650cc 4 cycle---TWO PISTONS.....similar but, DIFFERENT? THAT IS WHY I ASK FOR THE COLLECTIVE EXPERIENCES/ OPINIONS OF CLASSIC BIKE FORUM!
thanx red ryder
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james guthrie w
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Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 10:03 pm |
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| whip out the plugs,fill the combustion chambers with diesel and leave for a week or two(top up if required)before you do anything elsewhich may be risky or do damage,nothing more galling than wrecking a good motor when a squirt of diesel,time,and patience are the main ingredients.after a couple of weeks engage a low gear and gently rock the machine until she moves,once moving whip off the head and barrels,clean well with wire wool soaked in petroil mix,scrape out crud from ring grooves and measure wear tolerances in the usual way,if ok,new set of gaskets,change of oil,clean filters and fresh fuel and your away!do always change the oil after a long lay up,the amount of people who fire up bikes that have been stood for a long while and wonder why within a short period the big ends or mains are knocking,don,t understand that condensation mixed with old oil can have corrosive properties that will eat plain bearing surfaces or leave rust runs on roller bearing surfaces/crank pins.probably preaching to the converted,good luck.
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triumph5ta
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Posted: Wed Oct 1st, 2008 12:07 pm |
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| Its POSSIBLE that the big ends and/or main bearings have seized. This will be apparent if the cylinder block can be slid off but the engine will still not turn. But its PROBABLY the rings/pistons stuck to the cylinders. Worth bearing this in mind I would say.
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ironcross
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 01:12 am |
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fickmick wrote: A fail-safe method that nearly always works, is to fill the cylinder with "Very Hot" oil.
Heat the oil under a gas ring, in the open air for obvious reasons be very careful, then pour it into the cylinder. The reaction of the hot oil and cylinder expansion is amazing, and it does work.
It's a method that was used at college when I was an apprentice, and I've used this method ever since...give it a try...But be very careful.
I did it, no luck. Maybe the oil was not hot enough. What about heating the cylinders very carefully with a torch? There already full of oil. Oh, the pistons are at the bottom of the stroke and the scooter has only 2800 miles on it.
Any othere methods without pulling the Jugs
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peppy
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 09:23 am |
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roast the engine in the oven it will heat up evenly that way. that is if your las does not mind the whiff of hot oil in the house
pre heat the oven first if the crank is siezed main bearings or whatever then this way is sure to loosen every thing
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triumph5ta
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 09:48 am |
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| Sounds like you have to bit the bullet and remove the head and try to pull the barrells up. If its stuck that bad I would strip the motor down anyway even if you could turn eventually it over. Console your self with the fact you have a rare thing, an original 60's T120.
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Detour Rd.
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| Joined: | Sun Feb 4th, 2007 |
| Location: | Toms River, New Jersey USA |
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Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 10:17 pm |
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Dammit, do like I told you
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ironcross
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 02:04 am |
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Detour Rd. wrote: Dammit, do like I told you
I might just do that.
thank you all for the suggestions.
Wally Knoch
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Detour Rd.
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Posted: Tue Oct 7th, 2008 02:33 am |
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| good luck
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