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Early Bantam Forks
 Moderated by: Rick P, LozExpat, hugo, BeckyC  

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Nomis
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 Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 12:01 pm

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OK, so I've finally got my D3 forks back together and on the bike, fed nicely through a new pair of bushes and seals and all greased up lovely.... Initially, the fork sliders did not appear to be moving at all in an direction. I soon discovered that this was due to the grease seal holders being too tight on bottom of the legs. Once I had slackened these off a little I found that I had the opposite of the problem, with the sliders able to compress, but lacking the springiness to recoil. Does this sound like I need a new set of fork springs, or can anyone suggest anything else to try....

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 Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 12:57 pm

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The sliders can wear themselves - possibly to the extent of sticking with new  bushes etc?

I dunno, really it's 30 odd years since I did this job on my D3.

 

 



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Nomis
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 Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 07:57 pm

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Velton wrote: The sliders can wear themselves - possibly to the extent of sticking with new  bushes etc?

I dunno, really it's 30 odd years since I did this job on my D3.

 

 

I don't think that this can be the problem since the sliders are running through the bushes freely enough. Infact, everything seems to be working just fine (a good amount of sprung travel available at the bottom of each for leg etc) right up to the point where I put the front wheel back on, rock it off the stand and give it a bounce with the front brake on. At this point the front suspension just bottoms out until I lift the weight of the bike off it again.

Nomis
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 Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 08:26 pm

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Oh, and while we are at it...

Is the grease in this type of forks there to provide any sort of a damping action, or is it just there to facilitate the sliding of the sliders through the bushes?

Velton
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 Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 11:45 pm

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G*d damn, it's a long time ago! Can anyone else help? McNut?

What is holding the top of the spring in place? Is it just going too far up the fork leg?

I really can't remember all the details. Anyone got a diagram, please?

 

I think the grease is just for lubrication, as far as I recall. 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 11:46 am

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I'd be tempted to tighten up till the sliders just move, then over the period of a week or so keep bouncing the front forks up and down at different times and seeing if that eases up their movement. Do that till you are able to tighten right up and still move the forks up and down.

There were 2 different lengths of front fork springs between the D1 and D3, I know cos I cocked up once and put 1 slightly longer spring in a D1 and it took my mate doing the MOT to point out to me that there were actually 2 different lengths.Luckily he had a spare spring of the right length but it is so easy to do, as they look identical and you don't think to measure them when putting them in unless you know about the differences. I don't know though which length should be in the D1 and which in the D3, just that there is a difference.

:?



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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 02:25 pm

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"2 different lengths of front fork springs between the D1 and D3"

Could these springs just be too short? i.e. the wrong ones?



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ClassicMCnut
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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 02:42 pm

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Velton wrote: "2 different lengths of front fork springs between the D1 and D3"

Could these springs just be too short? i.e. the wrong ones?


Thats possible Velt, but as I said unfortunately never having come accross this before Tony from Camelford Bike Bits told me about it I don't know what the answer is.

It may be possible that some time in the past someone has put the wrong set of springs in it but thats just guesswork. Who knows.

:?



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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 04:53 pm

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Hmmm. The BSA parts catalogue for the D1 & D3 lists the springs as different part numbers, but all the parts suppliers I can find online only seems to sell one spring listed as being "suitable for D1 & D3" The plot thickens, but that would certainly explain the 'bottoming-out' I am experiencing.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 06:19 pm

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Does the catalogue show anything of the top mounting point of the springs?

Are they the same for both D1 and D3?



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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 11:26 pm

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TRY LOOSENING THE AXL NUT ON ONE SIDE, SOUND LIKE YOU'VE GOT THE WRONG SIZE SPACERS BETWEEN YOUR FORK LEG AND THE HUB. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT UP IT PULLS EVERYTHING TOGETHER AND STOPS THE LEGS FROM MOVING PROPERLY..

BILLY;)

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 Posted: Wed Oct 1st, 2008 12:37 am

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Sounds very plausible Billy :)  must be worth checking carefully.

If you take out the front wheel and support the two fork ends separately, do they move freely?


I guess this would this also explain why the forks stay compressed, apparently?

Last edited on Wed Oct 1st, 2008 12:39 am by Velton



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 Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 06:11 pm

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Grease is just for lubrication not damping. I have the same forks on my c10L. My trouble is I don't have any spacers at all. Got right conned with this bike it was partly dry built when I got it so now found lots of small parts missing :X 

Think Billy could be right.



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