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Bantam D10
 Moderated by: Rick P, LozExpat, hugo, BeckyC  

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Velton
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Mana: 
 Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 02:26 pm

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If it still works OK then I'd be inclined to leave the oil leaks for a while.

Those aren't oil leaks, really. It's just marking it's  territory - or it's got so much character that it oozes out, etc. :P

Certainly don't rush into stripping down the engine if you need transport! My first D7 dismantling and ( much harder) reassembly took ages. After a bit of practice it was simple and relatively quick.

You have already learned this the hard way with your sc**ter engine.

Just think hard and plan well before starting.

Get all your tools gaskets, manual etc in place FIRST!!!



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Bantam D10
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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 08:16 am

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I just printed out the workshop manual of 14/4 today, I just noticed that my baffles has been welded with the central tube or I don't have baffle??? I couldn't see baffle as described in D10 instruction book.

It is extremely dirty!!! This is why my little bantam is so slow???

Please have a look of the pictures,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30972645@N02/

ClassicMCnut
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Mana: 
 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 11:35 am

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Looking at the first picture it doesn't look unlike the baffles in the end of my B175. One thing though is that they DO look as if they need a really good clear out, so yes IF there is too much carbon gunk it will affect the performance of your engine. It means that the exhaust gases are backing up and as there are no valves in a 2 stroke it will just back up the gases into the cylinder head.

By rights the baffles SHOULD come out if I remember rightly and then you would be able to clear all the encrusted carbon. It may mean having to soak the inside of the exhaust. One way of doing that is to take off the silencer, plug up the small end then use a degreaser or I use petrol tipped into the wide end. I'm not one of those that advocate using just a small amount of petrol then setting it alight, it's too fraught with danger and chances of injury. Plus if you do put petrol in then make sure you do it outside NOT in the workshop. Don't forget to also ensure that the pipe from the cylinder to the silencer is also clear.

Good luck mate

:?



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Bantam D10
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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 01:17 pm

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Thanks mate!!!. I have a good clean of exhaust pipe. And then I will report the effect on my little bantam speed.

By the way what does the baffle look like??? Never seen one before. 

Do you think I should take the cylinder head off and decarbonate it too?

 

ClassicMCnut
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Mana: 
 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 02:00 pm

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Bantam D10 wrote: Thanks mate!!!. I have a good clean of exhaust pipe. And then I will report the effect on my little bantam speed.

By the way what does the baffle look like??? Never seen one before. 

Do you think I should take the cylinder head off and decarbonate it too?

 


One step at a time mate. sort the exhaust out first before doing a decoke. ............ When you pull on the bolt coming out of the end of the exhaust you'll find a lot of ring kinda things attached to it with holes in them. Hard to describe in words and I don't have any pictures of one in my computer so I can't help you there.

Others on here may be able to help you with a picture and also further advice regards the make up of exhausts, Over to you guys, see if you can help Bantam D10 out on this one.

:cool:



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Bantam D10
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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 02:53 pm

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I asked this question, because the intruction manual has suggested on page 15 of  model D10...

What does the baffle do in the exhaust pipe??? reduce the noise???

I can't hear much noise from my bantam even if I don't have one...

Also I soaked the end cap in NaOH, it turned out with black coat on the surface...

Velton
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Mana: 
 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 03:06 pm

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NaOH = Caustic soda?

Don't get it on your chrome.

Try McNut's idea to remove the baffle - like a kebab stick through several small ventilated circles - and then soak that in soda or at least clean it with a wire brush etc.

The fishtail is most unlikely to get blocked, but these little plates will!

Last edited on Tue Sep 30th, 2008 03:06 pm by Velton



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Graham B
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 Posted: Tue Sep 30th, 2008 03:32 pm

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I don't think the silencer's baffles are removable, they are probably welded in.

Plug the exhaust pipe end with something watertight (a potato will do if nothing else can be found) and fill the silencer with diluted caustic soda. Keep it off the chrome and off the alloy fishtail endcap. Leave it overnight and wash it through with water the next day.

If I remember correctly you have to gently add caustic soda to water rather than the other way round (or it'll get scarily hot) - if there are instructions on the pack follow them.

While the exhaust pipe is off rotate the back wheel with engine in gear to get the piston at its lowest and you should be able to shine a torch in the exhaust port and get some idea of how coked up it is. If tempted to scrape out some carbon be VERY careful not to scratch the piston or barrel.

Good luck. It looks like a nice bike :D

Bantam D10
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 Posted: Sat Oct 4th, 2008 09:37 am

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I did like what you guys suggested, used degreaser and caustic soda... It didn't work... the carbon still stick on the silencer wall.

See the picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/30972645@N02/

I don't wanna do the burning option, it is too dangerous.

 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 04:27 pm

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I have a new question for you guys.

There is a lot of oil leakage at the ticker. I is not leaking while I am riding, but it leak when i park. So I disassembled it, the float needle look ok to me. What do you think it cause this problem?

Cheers

Velton
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 Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 05:37 pm

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What concentration did you use of Caustic Soda? Maybe it wasn't strong enough?

I'm sure someone on here can remember (unlike me) and advise you.


The essential point is to ensure that no carbon obstructs the free flow of exhaust gasses.
 

What is the "ticker"?

Do you mean tickler - the little button on the top of the carburettor?

Are you sure the leak is not from the fuel pipe/ tap and just running downwards?

(I wouldn't expect fuel to leak from the tickler unless the float was stuck or held down.)

The petroil mix can evaporate, leaving an oily residue.

Last edited on Fri Oct 10th, 2008 06:35 pm by Velton



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Bantam D10
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 Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 04:08 am

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The concentration of caustic soda was very strong. I put twice of amount that it recommends mixing.

Definitely from the tickler... I have already checked the fuel pipe and tap.

In the workshop manual, it mentions tickler is unlike to wear out.

Hooli
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 Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 09:25 am

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i cant imagine how petrol could leak from there unless the float is stuck down or the needle valve is dirty. the tickler is above the normal fuel level so the only way it can leak is for the carb to be overfilling with petrol.



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ClassicMCnut
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 Posted: Sat Oct 11th, 2008 01:51 pm

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I fully agree with Hooli on this. The other possibility is the float itself has a leak in it allowing fuel to get into the float so it never fully shuts off. Easy to check, take float out and shake it, if there's fuel in it you'll soon know. Apart from that the shut off valve may be sticking as Hooli said.

:?



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Bantam D10
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 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 06:22 am

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I have already checked the float and  float needle. They are working well. But There are a lot of petrol epovated throughout the tickler... it is obvious!!!

Velton
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Mana: 
 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 10:31 am

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Petrol should not evaporate through the tickler at all.

I suggest that the likeliest explanation for the oil staining around that area is a slight leak down the petrol pipe, dripping onto the carb from where the petrol evaporates and leaves the oily residue.



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Bantam D10
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 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 12:51 pm

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No no... I cleaned the petrol around the tickler, but the fuel keeps coming out. It is obvious!!!

Also there is no petrol at other places and the joint where the fuel pipe connects to banjo is completely dry. 

It sound unbelievable, but it is true. The floor was full of petrol 2 day ago, because I forgot to close the fuel tap.

Hour ago I connected the banjo with petrol tank. the petrol is still leaking.

Need to get a new carb???:(:(:(

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30972645@N02/2934381888/

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 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 02:37 pm

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Bantam D10 wrote: The floor was full of petrol 2 day ago, because I forgot to close the fuel tap.

if that is happening then i know you've already checked it but your carb isnt working properly. either the float isnt closing the needle valve or the needle valve is faulty. the carb shouldnt overfill no matter how long the fuel tap is left on.

id get a new float, needle & needle seat for the carb & install those. shouldnt be that expensive and if the fuel level in the carb isnt correct it wont run properly either.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 02:38 pm

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I hate to ask the obvious BUT firstly is there a small white plastic shut off wedge between the float and the inlet pipe. Hard to describe but when the float gets to it's full heightit pushes the wedge upwards and shuts off the fuel. IF that is worn it will allow fuel to overfill the carb.

Test it by taking the top of the carb off and then blowing through the inlet hole where fuel goes into the carb, then push up on the fork holding the wedge in place and see if it stops the air flow.

:?



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Velton
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Mana: 
 Posted: Sun Oct 12th, 2008 04:30 pm

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Bantam D10 wrote: No no... I cleaned the petrol around the tickler, but the fuel keeps coming out. It is obvious!!!

Also there is no petrol at other places and the joint where the fuel pipe connects to banjo is completely dry. 

It sound unbelievable, but it is true. The floor was full of petrol 2 day ago, because I forgot to close the fuel tap.

Hour ago I connected the banjo with petrol tank. the petrol is still leaking.

Need to get a new carb???:(:(:(

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30972645@N02/2934381888/

 

Aha! Mark 1 Concentrics do not have the best tickler/ needle/  float arrangement.

As McNut said, if the petrol keeps leaking from that area then either there is a part missing or something is not working properly. The options are limited because there are only a few parts involved in that BUT my Mk. 1 Concentric tickler used to stick quite often. I don't think I was the only one.



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