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Bantam D10
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Posted: Fri Sep 19th, 2008 11:46 pm |
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Dear Norfiat,
I have already exchanged my old carb with speedo and cyclider head... The one which is currently attached is AMAL 626, but I dont know if it is for 2 stoke or 4 stoke. Do you know how to tell the different between them?
Dear Velton,
The bolts are good in place, I guess the engine makes the whole bike shake as the engine reach its speed limit... However I will check the wheel and chain today...
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Velton
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Posted: Sat Sep 20th, 2008 01:22 am |
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Most 175 Bantams should go over 50/ 55 mph without too much trouble.
If you've checked the timing and the air filter etc. then maybe the exhaust needs cleaning out - that will slow your bike down substantially.
Is your carburettor a Concentric (?) Anyone know about using one of these on a Bantam? Main jet sizes etc?
Last edited on Sat Sep 20th, 2008 02:52 am by Velton
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norfiat
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| Location: | Scarning, United Kingdom |
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Posted: Sat Sep 20th, 2008 08:51 am |
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| My D10 has a monoblock with the large round air filter fitted ( i notice that the haynes says concentric so its wrong about this ) Not sure about jet sizes but i know that the differene in 2 or 4 stroke relates to the main jet shoruding in the carb ... any AMAL experts out there?
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Hooli
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Posted: Sat Sep 20th, 2008 09:37 am |
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Velton wrote: If you've checked the timing and the air filter etc. then maybe the exhaust needs cleaning out - that will slow your bike down substantially.
makes sense to me, especially as since modding the exhaust on stroppy so it doenst leak i can rev a lot higher without excessive vibes. it surprised me how much difference it made.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 10:03 am |
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I have not cleaned the exhaust yet, but I'll do it later.
Thought the carb could be for 4 stroke, since the combustion doesn't occur consistently when I accelerate. I could feel this since I changed, but I didn't know both 2 and 4 strokes look the same. I feel like the engine slows down and accelerate again which happens this all the time.( I don't know... just feeling).
I don't have this experience with my 2 stroke vespas ( 1954 and 1962 model).
Any suggestions???
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 11:05 am |
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When in doubt ................ ASK RICK
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racerd
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:11 pm |
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tune your engine bigger carburettor, port inlet manifold, taper port the front of the carb, different exhaust use a expansion chamber, port the inlet port, line up transfer entrances to crank cases, rise and widen the exhaust port, raise compression, and take 2mm of the bottom of piston skirt on the inlet side of piston, flat and polish piston crown and combustion chamber in cylinder head, get squish in cylinder head re cut, set squish to 1mm,
mz ts 125 92 mph in 4th gear could have gone faster also used to run on a racing oil
Last edited on Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:15 pm by racerd
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Velton
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:43 pm |
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Yes, very interesting.
But if the damned thing wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding - and is nowhere near developing the power that it should as standard - then that needs to be sorted first.
Otherwise you might just be tuning a knackered engine?
Also, Bantam D10 seems to be having quite enough of a challenge to get the Bantam running well enough to go over 50 mph. Let's help him walk, before he can start to run?
Last edited on Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:46 pm by Velton
____________________
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Aaaah.Nostalgia isn't what it used to be!
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norfiat
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:49 pm |
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Hi Velton , Snap!
read my post on the two stroke mixing thread
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Velton
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:58 pm |
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McNut is joining in as well!
Great minds thinking alike!
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Just being old doesn't make it a "Classic."
Aaaah.Nostalgia isn't what it used to be!
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:59 pm |
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racerd wrote: tune your engine bigger carburettor, port inlet manifold, taper port the front of the carb, different exhaust use a expansion chamber, port the inlet port, line up transfer entrances to crank cases, rise and widen the exhaust port, raise compression, and take 2mm of the bottom of piston skirt on the inlet side of piston, flat and polish piston crown and combustion chamber in cylinder head, get squish in cylinder head re cut, set squish to 1mm,
mz ts 125 92 mph in 4th gear could have gone faster also used to run on a racing oil
You trying to get the lad killed???? With a 7 inch sls brake drum that will just about stop you in time at 60mph and you're advocating between 80 and the ton???
You GOT to be joking.
Shades of SS
Last edited on Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 02:59 pm by ClassicMCnut
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racerd
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Posted: Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 06:22 pm |
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my mz ts 125 cc had drum brakes front and rear, what is wrong with 80 mph
Last edited on Mon Sep 22nd, 2008 06:32 pm by racerd
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 10:22 am |
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Hi everyone,
Troubleshooting agian. By the way, hope everyone is very well.
I asked bsa mechanician to listen to my engine.
He said that the engine sounded really good, but the carburetor need to be tuned.
And then I asked him what about oil leak and rattle noise in gearbox... He said it was normal!!!
The oil leak doesn't look normal to me.... Anyway I bought gearbox oil("Shell Advance SX4 - 15W-50") to keep oil level as he suggested (His look is unsure).
Can I use this product since I can find any gearbox oil suggested in the instruction manual?
Also I just cleaned the silencer today with degreaser spray. It didn't work so well.
What chemical should I use for decarbonasition? NaOH???
Many thanks
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 11:44 am |
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Should be ordinary engine oil in the Bantam gearbox. I use 20/50 good quality oil. I think that because I haven't had any oil leaks from my Bantams, it isn't natural for an oil leak on a Bantam, so it has to come back to finding out WHERE the oil leak is from, either from crankcase joints or is it being pressuried out.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 02:17 pm |
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Hi MCnut,
It leaks from two places, one from the kickstarter and one from crankcase joint.
The oil colour leaked from kickstarter/gear controller is clear yellow whereas look black from the joints... Shouldn't they have to same colour???
Sound not good???
I just bought new gasket from ebay... Should I open crankcase and see anything wrong??? (Cross Fingers)
In case, there are somethings wrong and I want to change. I couldn't find the part list for D10!!! and don't know the technical term for those parts!!! 
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 02:19 pm |
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Take a lot of effort to walk properly!!! BEGINNER!!! Please don't get sick of me yet...
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Sun Sep 28th, 2008 02:32 pm |
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Bantam D10 wrote: Hi MCnut,
It leaks from two places, one from the kickstarter and one from crankcase joint.
The oil colour leaked from kickstarter/gear controller is clear yellow whereas look black from the joints... Shouldn't they have to same colour???
Sound not good???
I just bought new gasket from ebay... Should I open crankcase and see anything wrong??? (Cross Fingers)
In case, there are somethings wrong and I want to change. I couldn't find the part list for D10!!! and don't know the technical term for those parts!!!
Thing is mate, are you referring to the crankcase OR the clutch outer cover?? I've never used a gasket on my crankcases. I make sure that the surfaces are flat and then use a jointing compound, in my cases blue Hylomar for crankcases as I've never had a crankcase gasket included in any of my gasket sets I've bought. However if you intend to split the actual crankcases be aware you will need a specialist tool, namely a clutch compressor and it is a job that you need to take your time on and get it right, however if it is the clutch cover you refer to that the kickstart spline and gear spline go through thats easy to change. The kickstart comes out through a brass bush that can get worn and can either be changed or sometimes you can pack it with grease that stops oil coming out of it. Are you sure you haven't overfilled the gearbox with oil?? My parts lists for Bantams aren't on my com,puter, they are in a couple of booklets I got from suppliers, however I believe that there are some online and maybe someone else can help you with where to find them. I haven't got a working scanner otherwise i would have scanned them for you.
When you put the clutch gasket on give it a light smear with Blue Hylomar, not too thick on both surfaces of the gasket.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 11:58 am |
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Sorry to confuse you, sir... I didn't mention any oil leak at the gasket... The oil (black colour) is leaking at the centrol joint of crankcase, just inline with the frame... and one (clear yellow) also leaks the place where the kickstart attachs to.
For gasket part, I mean I have got the new gasket whether or not I should open the crankcase and do my first build up engine...
I have some confidence on rebuild the engine , but leak of skill and experience. I tried to rebuild vespa engine before, the first engine I destroyed it and learnt the lesson. 
Don't wanna destroy this engine, because I can't get new one here... I just wanna enjoy riding my bantam for a while...
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 12:27 pm |
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Bantam D10 wrote: Sorry to confuse you, sir... I didn't mention any oil leak at the gasket... The oil (black colour) is leaking at the centrol joint of crankcase, just inline with the frame... and one (clear yellow) also leaks the place where the kickstart attachs to.
For gasket part, I mean I have got the new gasket whether or not I should open the crankcase and do my first build up engine...
I have some confidence on rebuild the engine , but leak of skill and experience. I tried to rebuild vespa engine before, the first engine I destroyed it and learnt the lesson.
Don't wanna destroy this engine, because I can't get new one here... I just wanna enjoy riding my bantam for a while...
Okay mate I'll be perfectly honest with you ......... I'm not sure about the oil leak from the crankcases, in that if it is a minor leak and is causing you no loss of power I would be tempted to leave it BUT I can't answer that for sure. The black oil is obviously coming from spent oil from the petroloil mix after combustion in the cylinder head. Are you 100% sure it isn't coming from the exhaust flange, as all Bantams generally have a slight leak from there and it will run down the crankcase. Best way to find out is to clean it all up then put some washing up liquid around the area you THINK the leak may be from, start the engine and run it for a while at medium revs and see if the liquid bubbles.
The clear oil obviously is coming from the gear spline area as you said and is leaking probably past the brass bush/collar in the clutch/gearbox casing. As I said that can be replaced, but it is an akward job as it is either heated in or pressed into place, not sure which.Sometimes you can get over that by packing the area inside the bush with grease.
IF you do decide to strip the engine then as i said you will certainly need a clutch compressor tool and will need to take your time if you've never stripped a Bantam engine before, lots of patience and also plenty of pictures as you go along. Best read about it first fully in the Haynes manual before you start.
Sorry I can't be of more help but keep the questions coming and also keep us informed of progress.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 02:23 pm |
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Oh, I will try what you just suggested... Appreciated!!!
Everyone here is very kind to me and try to help me out... I am sorry if my sentence sound offensive. Never intend to be that way. English is not my first language.
I think I am not going to rebuild near future. However it will surely happen sometime next year,becaue there are some help in Melbourne and on this website.
The pictures and video will be uploaded on youtube when the process starts.
I am going to take this little bantam back home... I love this bike..
Hard to get part and internet back home (countryside in Thailand).
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