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Bantam D10
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Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 07:43 am |
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Hello everyone,
I need some advice. I just bought little Bantam D10 a week ago. Always first kick start. However I have a problem with the engine. It always stop in middle of the road when I ride at speed of around 30 mph for 5-10 mins. And then I have to wait for 5-7 mins before I can start it again. The piston still moves freely when It stops. Thought the fuel tap was too tight and then inside tank under vacuum condition, it doesn't have enough passed to carbu. I have tried by riding it with the fuel tap open, the problem still occurs.
Also my little bantam can make top speed at only 35-38 mph. Is this normal for bantam D10?
Does anyone know what the problem and how to fix it? Pleas give me some advice.
Last edited on Fri Oct 24th, 2008 09:54 pm by Bantam D10
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norfiat
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Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 09:04 am |
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Hi Chirot, Your D10 should be able to do well over 55mph . If yours is a 3 speed like mine it needs to be revved to get it to run nicely ,its a bit sportier than the older bantams and has a 'power band' ( dont laugh Gus)
If it won't rev up at all then check the carb over ,I had to lower the needle a couple of notches as It was fourstroking all the time ,Is it doing that or is it revving cleanly? Also check the air filter , run it with the airfilter off just to eliminate another possibility. Stopping when running ok points to fuel ,are the filters in the tank and the carb clean?
Then also check timing,points,plug etc ,Its got an external coil so that shouldn't overheat but check that as well. It may need an overhaul ...rebore /seals etc
I'm sure Mcnutt will be along in a little while with a bit more advice
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 07:37 pm |
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Norf has just about summed it up. Once my B175 was tuned right the only problems I've had were due to my own fault. I once rode with the choke out and wondered why it wouldn't pull uphill, the other time I put petroloil in from an oldish metal can and obviously there was some crap in it. Blocked the tank filters. Since then I fitted an in line plastic filter which stops any of the sh*t getting to the banjo union filter and I know that if I have fuel in the tank, switch on the petrol tap and none appears in the online filter then the filter in the tank must be blocked.
I reckon though you should be at least getting 55 out of a D10 if not more.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Sun Sep 14th, 2008 10:42 pm |
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Thanks guys for your advices,
I'll do some checking today... Hopefully, I can cure the problem.
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Velton
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Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 12:39 am |
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Hi Chirot, welcome to the Funny Farm.
Do I detect a foreign accent?
The reason I ask is that the bike will inevitably stop if the "fuel tap" is not open!
I think you maybe mean that you've tried riding with the fuel filler cap not open / not completely closed?
(Fuel filler cap is on the top of the tank, about 10cm across - and you take it off to put in fuel.)
"Fuel tap" is in the bottom of the fuel tank attached to a pipe to the carburettor.
You wouldn't be the first rider to be confused about which setting is on or off on a new /strange bike!
OK, I know I'm nit-picking but please can we get our terminology straight as a first step? It will help, honestly! 
Last edited on Mon Sep 15th, 2008 12:41 am by Velton
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 10:19 am |
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Sorry for confusion.
Thanks to Velton, I now know what I should use
By the way I am a beginner to British bike , no idea what terminology everyone uses.
In my sentence, I meant " Fuel filler cap", not fuel tap beneath the fuel tank.
Does anyone out there want to give more advice?
I will try to do what ClassicMcNut have suggested on weekend.
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Velton
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Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 10:51 am |
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Hi Chirot, or should I say "bonjour" ?
If you do all the basic checks like timing etc. and the bike is still not right, then maybe check that the exhaust system is not blocked with carbon? That will slow down any 2 stroke by stopping the exhaust gases from escaping quickly enough.
____________________
Just being old doesn't make it a "Classic."
Aaaah.Nostalgia isn't what it used to be!
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 11:23 am |
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Appreciate your advice.
By the way,I am thai At the moment. At the moment I am international student in Australia. I hadn't known BSA before I came to Australia.
Therefore please help me if you can...
I'll try all advice on the week...
If it doesn't work, I will start the first restoration on English motor.
Then I will have a lot of questions for you guys.
Thank you in advance
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Hooli
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Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 06:34 pm |
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Bantam D10 wrote: I am thai At the moment.
one in one out is it? seems Loz has your space back home 
i suspect that wont make any sense till you read more of the forum though.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 09:58 am |
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You guys are right, the filter in the carb was dirty. I have already cleaned the carb, but I decided to change to a little bit bigger carb. The bike is running better, does not stop in middle of the road anymore. However I still can make only 40-45 mph before the bike starts shaking crazily.
Also there is an oil leakage... Is this normal????
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 11:20 am |
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Bantam D10 wrote: You guys are right, the filter in the carb was dirty. I have already cleaned the carb, but I decided to change to a little bit bigger carb. The bike is running better, does not stop in middle of the road anymore. However I still can make only 40-45 mph before the bike starts shaking crazily.
Also there is an oil leakage... Is this normal????
Bantams shouldn't leak oil. I've done 4 now and by using gaskets and hylomar paste I found no leaks from any of the crankcases or covers. IF it is coming from the exhaust it could be your petroloil mix is slightly too high, but the question is WHERE is the oil leaking from?? Check that the oil level in your gearbox is constant.
IF the bike is shaking I suggest you check that your wheel spindles are tight and that neither of the wheels are flopping around at all. Only other thing that could cause that is the chains are not lined up exactly. Can't think immediately of any other cause.IF I think of anything else I'll re-post it.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 11:35 am |
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I suspect the oil leaks from under the engine, I don't know where exactly it leaks from. I just cleaned it up and wait to see which point is leaking...
Can you suggest any websites where I can purchase the gasket???
I'll check the chain and wheel tomorrow... I let you guys when it has been up to...
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iand
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 11:43 am |
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mine leaks a little too, but its leaking from the kickstart shaft hole??? there is no seal or o ring to stop this leak though?
i suspect the gearbox to crankcase joint is also weeping slightly but not enough to leave a puddle under the bike!
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1960 Lambretta LI125 - SOLD,
2001 Honda CG125 - SOLD,
2005 Yamaha FZ6 - SOLD,
1980 Kawasaki Z500,
1967 BSA Bantam D10 - Rideable again(ish)
2008 Aprilia Shiver
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 12:27 pm |
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Please don't laugh at me...
Seriously I don't know how to set up the timing. Can you instruct me how to set it up or recommend some good restoration/working manual?
Many thanks
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 01:55 pm |
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Bantam D10 wrote: Please don't laugh at me...
Seriously I don't know how to set up the timing. Can you instruct me how to set it up or recommend some good restoration/working manual?
Many thanks
The Haynes manual for Bantams is pretty good. There are second hand copies and new copies sold on E Bay in the Literature section of Motorcycles Spares.
regards gaskets I find that Draganfly are pretty good and prompt. 01986 894798 or 01986 892826. Just make sure you tell them the model and year of the bike.
Hope this helps
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norfiat
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 01:57 pm |
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Hi ,
On line manual is
http://www.bantam.150m.com/
The D10 instruction manual has a section about the timing
I wouldn't strip the bike to fix an oil leak unless its really bad ,wait until you need to strip it for another reason ;clutch,seals, etc etc and then fix the oil leak ,just enjoy using it...
Last edited on Wed Sep 17th, 2008 02:00 pm by norfiat
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ClassicMCnut
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Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 01:59 pm |
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I agree with Norf entirely on his point about not stripping the engine for an oil leak unless it is really bad BUT keep an eye on your gearbox oil level with the dipstick in the top of the gearbox.
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Do unto others before they do unto you.Wise men learn by other men's mistakes,fools by their own.
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Bantam D10
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Posted: Fri Sep 19th, 2008 12:23 pm |
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I just adjusted the timing and play around with carb (not the best due to lack of experience), the bike ran a lot bit better. I took bantam to work today which I found that the bike could run beautifully at speed of 35-38 mph. This speed was still too slow to keep up with trafic on the 70-80 km/h zone road. Thefore I pushed it a bit harder to reach 40-43 mph(70km/h) and then it started to cry and I also could smell burning!!! So I slowed it down and changed to ride on small road. I feel really regretted and sad on abusing my bantam. I don't know what I should do next to make the bike runs with its design speed.
By the way, I need to thank Norfiat for website and others for good suggestions.
Give me some more suggestions
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norfiat
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Posted: Fri Sep 19th, 2008 12:42 pm |
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Hi,
If you've set the timing correctly and it will run ok at 38 but overheats when pushed then i recon that you have the carb set too weak,
You said before that you fitted another carb, go back to the original carb as Amals are different for two stroke and 4 stroke engines and its difficult to tell which is which.
On the original carb make sure its all clean and set the needle in the lowest notch ,thats the notch nearest the pointy end that goes into the carb throat (richest mixture) Then try to run the bike, if it fourstrokes put the clip into a higher notch then try again ,you want it to just about run ok with the richest setting you can get away with .
Have you checked gearbox oil as per mcnutt's post and do you have the correct 25 to 1 mix in the petroil?
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Velton
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Posted: Fri Sep 19th, 2008 03:55 pm |
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"However I still can make only 40-45 mph before the bike starts shaking crazily."
"Shaking crazily" could mean several things.
Are we talking about engine vibration ( my best guess) in which case I would start by checking all the engine mounting bolts for tightness and then all the extra bits -exhaust mountings etc.
N.B. This is not a trial of strength with the previous owner, don't break anything, just make sure they're all tight.
Odd things can be very unhelpful, someone used a couple of bolts that were slightly smaller on one of my BSAs - but looked sort of alright at casual glance. Engine mounting bolts need to be a snug fit in the hole. (Also a length of studding holding the footrests on my old B25SS. Not an improvement!)
If the whole bike is shaking and doesn't want to steer smoothly in a straight line then you need to be looking at the cycle parts, wheel bearings and balance, steering head etc.
____________________
Just being old doesn't make it a "Classic."
Aaaah.Nostalgia isn't what it used to be!
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