| Author | Post |
|---|
nigel wilcock Member
| Joined: | Sat Dec 23rd, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 1 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Sat Dec 23rd, 2006 12:00 pm |
|
Hello all.
Any help would be much appreciated, as this problem is doing my head in!
Bike in question is a '79 T140D with MkII Amals and electronic ignition. The engine has been rebuilt about 300 miles ago and it was running on both pots.
After standing some time, the bike refused to run on both cylinders, running on the l/h side only.
The following tests/procedures have been carried out, but the problem persists.
Plugs, leads, coils swapped over.
New electronic ignition system fitted (Pazon)
Carbs stripped, cleaned, swapped over.
New petrol put in tank.
New battery fitted.
Head removed and valves checked (oil left 24 hours in upturned head, no bypass)
Pistons/bore checked (similar test to above, bypass at equal rate each side)
Compression test carried out (125 psi both cylinders)
Valve timing and clearances set and checked.
Ignition timing checked/set (strobed using l/h HT lead) at 3,500rpm.
All ignition circuit tests carried out, and substitute coils and leads fitted.
What else can I check? Symptoms are that neat fuel is coming out the end of the silencer, whilst some intermittent firing takes place as throttle opening is increased. Adjusting the air screw on the carb makes no discernible difference.
Your help PLEASE
Nige
|
Tribon Member
|
Posted: Sat Dec 23rd, 2006 05:31 pm |
|
| Hi Nigel,this might sound daft,but it happened to me while setting the carbs on my T140-------- the "air take adaptor" (between the carb/air box) got turned up side down by mistake and my bonny was only running on 1 pot,it had me and afew mates lost for weeks as to the problem,turned it 180d and hey presto sorted,so check the airtake adaptor you never know ???-------------- Jed.
|
andy Member

|
Posted: Sat Dec 23rd, 2006 07:58 pm |
|
Nigel.. I've heard of a similar problem due to the electronic ignition pickup having a bad connection... bike would spark with eht plugs out but would not run on 2 cylinders until high revving..
Worth checking or swap for another unit if possible.
Andy
|
T140AV Member

| Joined: | Tue Dec 26th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 53 |
| Favourite Bike: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Tue Dec 26th, 2006 10:55 am |
|
| You've not changes the silencers have you? I had this trouble with mine & it turned out that one of the silencers was made different to the other. Just a thought.
|
Frankfurt-Beesa Member

| Joined: | Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 |
| Location: | Frankfurt Am Main, Germany |
| Posts: | 7899 |
| Favourite Bike: | My little HodgePodge |
| Status: |
Offline
|
| Mana: |     |
|
Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 03:55 pm |
|
This may sound even dafter than some of the things I've read but it happened to me while in a hasty "Can't wait to hear the music" rush.
I put a BB electronic ignition in my A65 and new dual output 12V coil, the mistake was that the coil I used was not suitable for electronic ignition parallel firing, only for Digital Ignition. I would get a spark on one cylinder every turn and nothing on the other. I put on an older dual output (this time suitable) and it started first kick.
If you are using single coils then check the internal resistance 6V coils are suitable but 12 Volt usually have too high, the sum of the two must not be higher than 7 Ohms.
12Volt single output coils are usually 4.5 (sum 9 ohms) or more whereas the dual output are 4 - 5 check:
http://www.pazon.com/pages/product_detail.asp?s=ZQZIA2hVZVN2W2lpRXM=
This unit works a charm
____________________

|
 Current time is 12:38 am | |
|